There is a place, a half-hour drive from Marina di Grosseto, where time seems to have stood still for three thousand years. It’s called Vetulonia and for centuries it was practically a legend: a powerful and wealthy city, mentioned by ancient writers, which then vanished without a trace.
Rediscovered only in the 19th century thanks to a doctor with a passion for archaeology, today it is one of the most charming and least crowded villages in the entire Maremma region. If you’re on vacation along the Grosseto coast and looking for something a little different, Vetulonia is the unexpected day trip you’re looking for.
The History of Vetulonia
Vetulonia, a powerful city of the Etruscan Dodecapolis, was a key hub for maritime trade and metalworking and even came to influence the symbols of Roman power. According to some ancient sources, it was Vetulonia itself that “taught” Rome the symbols of power: the fasces, the toga with the purple sash and the curule chair.
A wealthy and powerful city, it traded throughout the Mediterranean: with Greece, Phoenicia, and Carthage.
Having fallen into oblivion after the Roman conquest, it was rediscovered in 1880 thanks to the excavations of the physician Isidoro Falchi, who brought its historical significance to light. In 1887, the village officially resumed using its former name.
What to See in Vetulonia
The tour can essentially be divided into three parts: the village, the necropolis and the museum. If you have a whole day, you’ll be able to see everything at a leisurely pace. If you have half a day, visit the museum and the necropolis—it’s well worth it.
The Village and the Walls of Arce
Vetulonia is a small medieval village that overlooks the Grosseto plain from above. Strolling through its quiet alleys, among stone houses and vegetable gardens overlooking the valley, is an experience in itself. In the highest part of the village stand the Mura dell’Arce: about thirty meters of Etruscan city walls, built with enormous polygonal stone blocks stacked one on top of the other without mortar. They date from between the 6th and 2nd centuries B.C. and still make quite an impression today. Just imagine: the entire fortress of the Etruscan city covered an area of about sixteen hectares.
The Way of the Cross and the Necropolis
Just outside the town, a country road leads to the Via dei Sepolcri, the heart of the archaeological site. It is here that the hills conceal thousands of Etruscan tombs discovered over decades of excavations. The burial mounds rising from the ground invite visitors to enter the underground chambers, where the deceased were buried with their grave goods: precious objects, vases, weapons and jewelry. Some tombs are open to the public and can be visited.
The most important ones you shouldn’t miss are:
- The Pietrera Tomb: the largest funerary monument in all of Vetulonia, consisting of two chambers, one above the other, inside which the earliest sculptures in the round from Etruscan civilization were discovered.
- Tomb of the Little Devil II: You enter through a long, partially open corridor, in an atmosphere you won’t easily forget.
- The Tomb of the Golden Fibula: open to the sky and sheltered by olive trees, this is the site where the famous golden fibula—crafted using the “pulviscolo” technique, a goldsmithing method of the highest caliber—was found; it is now on display in the village museum.
- Belvedere Tomb: Offering a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside, it is one of those places where history and landscape blend seamlessly.
The Isidoro Falchi Civic Archaeological Museum
The museum, named after the doctor who rediscovered the city, is located in Piazza Vetluna and consists of seven rooms spread over two floors. It traces the history of Vetulonia from the 9th century B.C. through the Roman era, featuring over seven hundred original artifacts. Among the most valuable items are: gold jewelry crafted using the “pulviscolo” technique (tiny gold beads applied to any surface), stelae with Etruscan inscriptions, exceptionally rich grave goods and artifacts from trade with the Eastern and Greek worlds.
It’s worth spending at least an hour and a half there. The facility is also accessible to visitors with mobility impairments and to the visually impaired—a feature that is not to be taken for granted in a small village.
Visiting the Vetulonia Archaeological Park is a great idea. A day that perfectly breaks up the routine of a beach vacation: you return with your head full of history, your feet a little tired and that pleasant feeling of having discovered something not everyone knows about.
